Thus, it rises to the top, making it nearly impossible to get all of those tiny bubbles forced out of the brake piston's bleeder screws. With that solved, we turn to problems that revolve around master cylinders. The result from this little technical tirade? A much-improved lever feel that's both firmer and feels more "in touch" with what the brakes are doing. flexed-out expanded area might be the same ratio as larger lines, the resulting amount of fluid volume wasted is significantly less - remember, we're pushing the same amount of fluid through the lines irregardless of the lines' diameter. Thus, since the dash-two lines are of a considerably smaller diameter, there's less cross-sectional area to flex. Brake lines, especially the large-diameter ones that come standard on new motorcycles - and even the "dash-three" lines that are common in most aftermarket kits - flex, in some instances quite a bit. Unfortunately, it's an imperfect world we live in.
Theoretically, the diameter of your brake line shouldn't matter - fluids should be uncompressible at these pressures, so pushing X amount of fluid from a master cylinder should result in the same amount getting into your brake pistons' cylinders. So the first thing you do is go buy some "dash-two" steel-braided brake lines they're made out of very small diameter teflon tubing and shrouded in a steel braid to prevent abrasion holes from rubbing against fenders, triple clamps and so forth as the wheel moves up and down. That vague, spongy feel you get at your lever is caused by two things - cheap rubber lines and low-quality stock master cylinders. Of course you need high-quality brake pads and good rotors, but most OEM sportbikes made in the '90s already have those. That leaves braking, and in this area, lever feel and power is everything. Likewise, high-power motors are expensive to build and even costlier to maintain. But suspension setup is rather complicated, even for an experienced racer who has access to a shock dynomometer. What can we say about a simple brake master cylinder? After all, your bike stops just fine, so why spend $500 on a little thingie with a lever and a bunch of nasty fluid in it? It's simple really: If you want to go fast on a race bike, you've got to do three things better than anyone else - stop, turn and accelerate.
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